STEPHEN TEST Wines

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REVIEWS
 
Sauvignon Blanc, O'Neel Ranch, Russian River Valley

2008 Vintage
89  Stephen Tanzer's INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR, May/June 2010
Pale gold. Lively lemon, green apple and minerals on the nose, with a hint of herbs.  Dry, focused, bracing lemon and lime flavors give way to deeper orchard fruits with air and pick up notes of anise and white pepper.  Restrained and refreshingly nervy, with good finishing grip and subtle herbacity.  Seems more Old World than New.  -Josh Raynolds


89  One Puff      Connoisseur's Guide to California Wine, August 2009
A racy nose of figs and fresh-melon fruit sets this one out on a fine start, and the wine's moderately rich, crisp-leaning flavors are similarly keyed on lively young fruit with scant hints of sweet spice peeking through here and there.  Firm, but always in balance, the wine ends with a lengthy finish and will keep well for a few years.

2007 Vintage
89 
Wine Spectator online
Vibrant and tangy, with delicious Golden Apple, tart lemon meringue, passion fruit and lime flavors.  Intense and flavorful, persistent on the finish.  Drink now.

2006 Vintage
90  Wine & Spirits      June 2008       YEAR'S BEST
Clean, fresh flavors of nectarine and peach round out this ripe, fleshy sauvignon.  Serve with a sandwich of grilled pork loin, arugula and fruit compote.  

86  Wine Spectator online     
Delicate citrus flavors have spicy nuances, with peach, nectarine, pear and apple blossom notes.  The acidity is balanced and lively, and the flavors echo on the finish.  Drink now.   

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Chardonnay, Sangiacomo Vineyards, Carneros

2007 Vintage
91  Two Puffs      Connoisseur's Guide to California Wine, November 2009
Ripeness, extracted fruit, ample oak and uncommonly fine structure are the hallmarks of this big but surprisingly well-balanced wine, and, while subtlety is not among its strengths, it is a very deep and full-flavored effort that commands attention.  Unlike so many of its similarly flamboyant cousins, it promises to age quite well, and, if it offers lots to like in the near term, it will only get better with age.

90  Stephen Tanzer's INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR, May/June 2010
Light yellow.  Pungent, mineral-laced aromas of pear, lemon rind, sweet butter and baking spices, plus an intriguing iodine quality that reminds me of Burgundy.  Pliant orchard fruit and citrus flavors are complicated by smoke and minerals, with a note of anise emerging on the back half.  Very suave chardonnay with very good depth and delineation.  The firm, stony finish repeats the smoky note.  This parcel of the vineyard is planted to a Wente clone.  - Josh Raynolds

2006 Vintage   
94  Wine & Spirits    October 2008    YEAR'S BEST
Test made noteworthy chardonnays at Stonestreet and Merryvale before he started his own label in 2006.  This one comes from a block planted with the old Wente clone at the Sangiacomo's Vella Ranch.  It produced an intricate and layered wine, lasting with powerful complexity.  It starts off with deep baritone flavors of apple and grilled lemon.  Higher notes of litchi and minerals rise out of a rich middle, with the cool feel of fresh cream.  The flavors are deep enough to serve with roast partridge or the dark meat of a roast turkey.  The structure is substantial enough to benefit from several years of age.

89  One Puff      Connoisseur's Guide to California Wine, October 2008

Trim balance and bright fruit are the watchwords of this carefully proportioned effort, and, if never a bombastic or boldly styled wine, it does a fine job at knitting together lengthy varietal fruit with sympathetic oak spice. Slightly creamy in feel and always light on its feet, it will find a comfortable place at the table with dishes ranging from lightly sauced chickens to a plate of sauteed scallops.

87  Wine Spectator online
Elegant, with subtle creamy pear, fig and melon flavors that show a touch of leafiness, along with mineral pebble notes.  Drink now through 2011.
 

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2006 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley

88  Wine & Spirits    April 2009    YEAR'S BEST
(Best Buy)  A full-bodied pinot noir with wild raspberry flavor, this wine's fruit needs time to absorb some of the caramelized sweetness of its oak.  It's gentle and straightforward.  For grilled quail.

88  Wine Spectator online
There's good richness in this full-bodied Pinot, which has a core of ripe raspberry, wild berry, mineral and pebble.  Still a bit chunky, but the flavors are complex and concentrated.  Ends with a delicate note.  Drink now through 2014.


89  One Puff      Connoisseur's Guide to California Wine

Suggestions of sour cherries in the nose here are met by a light bit of oak and hints of dried roses, and the same attractive mix of fruit, oak and flowers is reiterated in the composed flavors that follow.  Nicely balanced and very smooth with nary a touch of coarseness, this amicable middleweight Pinot is an eminently accessible rendition that invites drinking over the next two or three years.


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Syrah, Unti Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley

2007 Vintage
88(+?)  Stephen Tanzer's INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR, May/June 2010
Deep ruby.  Initially reduced aromas of cherry and dark berry skin pick up a subtle floral character with air.  Peppery cassis and blueberry flavors are tightly wound and well focused if a bit unyielding.  I like this wine's juicy character but it's holding as much in reserve as it offers right now.  I'd come back in a couple of years. -  Josh Raynolds


2006 Vintage
91    Wine Spectator     June 30, 2009

Fresh, ripe, intense and vibrant, with a tasty core of wild berry, spice, cedar and mineral that's complex, showing a trace of heat.  Drink now through 2014. 



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